Tessy Oliseh-Amaize, the creative mind behind Tesslo and a Nigerian designer who received training in the UK, is urging the Nigerian Ministry of Art, Culture, and Creative Economy to take immediate action in the country’s Fashion sector. She believes that the implementation of regulatory measures is crucial in order to enhance profitability for designers within the industry. In the June 6 episode of the popular Instagram vlog series Fashion Professor, it was noted that the Nigerian fashion industry is frequently hailed as a rising star in the creative sector.
However, it was also mentioned that it may not achieve the same level of worldwide success as Afrobeats. In the Pidgin episode, a major issue that was pointed out was the absence of proper regulations in the Nigerian fashion field, as shown with an English interpretation. Oliseh-Amaize highlighted the challenge that designers encounter when their original designs are copied without permission by local tailors, despite the effort and resources they put into creating unique pieces.
There is lack of a proper system for regulating tailors in Nigeria.
She expressed her sorrow over how this phenomenon is causing designers to lose out on the earnings they deserve and damaging the integrity of the industry. Oliseh-Amaize highlighted the lack of a proper system for regulating tailors in Nigeria, comparing it to industries like transportation that have strict regulations, including the requirement for motorcycles to have license plates. She believes that the absence of proper regulations puts designers at risk of being taken advantage of and having their intellectual property stolen.
The episode also delves into the rise of numerous fashion schools in Nigeria lacking proper supervision or control. Oliseh-Amaize, the recipient of Nigeria’s Best Designer Award in 2006, compared these schools to a contagious outbreak within the fashion sector, raising alarms about the standard of Education they provide and questionable practices that are weakening the industry’s reputation. Oliseh-Amaize recognized the government’s backing of the fashion industry in her appeal to the Ministry of Art, Culture and Creative Economy.
Fashion should adopt a system similar to music’s orderly streaming system.
Also, she emphasized the need for more organized assistance in overcoming the obstacles faced by the sector. She highlighted the need for fashion to adopt a system similar to the music industry’s structured streaming system, which allows artists to continue earning Revenue even after their popularity declines. This framework would help designers in the fashion industry sustainably support themselves financially. She mentioned that just having numbers based on population does not imply that the country possesses the necessary framework to ensure the profitability and Sustainability of these numbers for fashion designers.
In 2015, research by Euromonitor revealed that Nigeria held a significant 15% share of the $31 billion fashion market in Sub-Saharan Africa. Over the past decade, from 2010 to 2019, the Nigerian fashion sector experienced a remarkable growth of 17%, boosted by influential events like Lagos Fashion Week. The global pandemic of COVID-19 forced fashion shows to pivot online, resulting in increased interest and focus on Lagos Fashion Week and other fashion exhibitions across Africa.
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Additionally, the emergence of Nigerian fashion gained momentum through the introduction of the Nigerian version of the South African publication, Drum, in 1958 within Lagos. This magazine showcased images of the modern Nigerian lifestyle. Throughout the late 1900s, Nigerian fashion designers created multiple editions of the Dressense Fashion Catalogue targeting the high-end market segment. Established in 1989 by Kola Kuddus, the Fashion Designers Association of Nigeria aims to elevate Nigerian fashion on a global platform. Additionally, the Central Bank of Nigeria has implemented a program to provide financial support to emerging fashion designers.