Nigeria’s once-thriving Textile sector, a major economic engine in the 1990s, has collapsed under the weight of cheaper imports, particularly from China. Cities like Kaduna, Kano, Lagos, and Onitsha had thriving textile mills back then, employing hundreds of thousands of people and sustaining a robust local cotton farming ecosystem. Only a small number of factories remain in operation today, struggling to survive as Chinese textiles, which are cheaper due to domestic raw material access and vertically integrated supply chains, overtake Nigerian markets and push local producers out of business.
Currently, the industry is a Shell of its former glory, struggling with a near-total market domination by imported fabrics. One of the most jarring aspects of this displacement is how Chinese manufacturers have successfully mimicked traditional Nigerian designs. Chinese producers have modified their production lines to expressly target West African markets, overflowing them with goods that appear Nigerian but are not manufactured there, ranging from striking Ankara prints to traditional motifs used in ceremonial dress. This technique undermines the communities and craftspeople who have historically upheld these customs while also diminishing the cultural significance of regional textiles.
Shifting consumer choice to affordability over authenticity.
Marketplaces across the nation, like Kantin Kwari in Kano and Balogun in Lagos, are brimming with foreign-manufactured Ankara and wax designs that remarkably resemble those made domestically. Although the designs and hues could have Nigerian originality, the price and place of origin are different. Customers who cannot afford or no longer see the value in locally made alternatives are drawn in by this imitation, which gives the appearance of local authenticity while providing a significantly lower price point. This influx of foreign textiles had gradually reshaped consumer behavior.
Purchasing textiles made in Nigeria used to make a cultural statement and seen as a way to support the local economy. But today, economic constraints and pricing sensitivity have shifted preferences toward affordability over authenticity. The cost difference between fabrics created locally and those made in China is too great for many Nigerians to overlook, particularly those in the lower and middle income ranges. Customers are choosing practical rather than patriotic options as locally made products are twice or even three times as expensive as their imported counterparts.
Competitive edge of Chinese textile production.
The Chinese advantage lies in their industrial scale, government subsidies, effective supply chains, and integrated Logistics that enabled them to produce enormous amounts of fabric at affordable prices. On the other hand, Nigerian producers have to contend with exorbitant Manufacturing costs, unstable Electricity supplies, antiquated equipment, restricted access to capital, and fierce competition from illegally imported goods. Furthermore, many of these imported textiles are frequently misrepresented as domestically produced in Nigerian marketplaces, misleading uninformed consumers and undermining confidence in the textile supply chain.
Another factor weakening Nigeria’s textile position is inconsistent policy enforcement. Despite several government attempts to ban or restrict the importation of foreign textiles—such as the Central Bank of Nigeria’s inclusion of textiles on its forex restriction list in 2019—porous borders and Smuggling have rendered such policies ineffective. As a result, foreign textiles continue to flood Nigerian markets, unchecked and often untaxed, further undermining local industries. Efforts to revive the Nigerian Textile Industry have been sporadic and largely ineffective. Government interventions, including policy incentives, import restrictions, and funding schemes, have not yet yielded sustained results.
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Yet, the government continues to demonstrate action to revive the industry, eyeing the possible economic gains within the cotton and textile sectors. Efforts include recent investments worth $3.5 billion and initiatives like the Central Bank’s Cotton, Textile, and Garment (CTG) fund. This is supported by Ogun State’s plan to build West Africa’s largest textile hub. Industry stakeholders have also been unrelenting in their proactive calls, which stress that changing consumer behavior is crucial and exhort Nigerians to consciously support local products as a way to restore the once-thriving industry.